Riding the Divide - Baby Tracks (First Leg)

Drum roll please!  Neva and I biked across west Texas just so we could do the small portion of the GDT (Great Divide Trail) from Silver City, NM to Poncha Springs, CO.  The first push is from Silver to Pie Town.  It's got some good climbs because you're going from 6000 feet elevation to 8000 feet.  This leg doesn't have much water, no towns or food, and has some difficult climbs for pulling a trailer, but it's behind us now, and it ended in pie!  It doesn't get much better than that!

My dad seeing us off at the very beginning of our journey in Camp Wood, Texas.  Thumbs up and peace signs all around.

SILVER CITY, NM - THE BIKE HAUS

My friend Ben lives in Silver City and decided to see us off by joining us for a couple days on our journey.  We stayed with Ben and the whole Bike Haus gang while packing up for the big trip.

This is Jamie, owner of the Bike Haus, racer of the Great Divide Trail, and one of Neva's favorite people.  Hey!  Ben's hair photobombed the picture!

It's a fun place for Neva to stay with a community atmosphere, bikes all around, and giant puppets that Jamie makes for monthly bike parades.

Not even a fraction of the puppets they have...they have other storage facilities that house more of these full-sized puppets.

It's kind of a tradition for Ben to make his famous Ben bread before a bike trip, or any trip, or if it's Tuesday, or... If you ever get to meet Ben, you might be lucky enough to get some home made walnut cranberry sourdough, or a variety of his other delicious creations.

Three loaves of sourdough here with some fresh goat milk to wash it down.

Ben and I got the official well wishing good bye with the Bike Haus friends ringing cow bells for us as we rode off towards new heights.

Ben, Neva and I about to leave from the Bike Haus

LAKE ROBERTS - MESA CAMPGROUND

Our first day was all pavement, but it was all uphill from Silver City to Pinos Altos.  We were good and ready to set up camp right next to the lake, eat dinner, and watch birds for the remainder of the daylight hours.

I was told this is an Osprey.

Ben's mind was on food, and he started up dinner.  Pasta and pesto with tuna.

  

Ben's usual place, slaving over delicious food.

Neva and Ben were playing around while I was blowing up the ground pads.

Ben and Neva decided this would be an easier way to strap Neva to the bike.  The Ortlieb rack pack in medium fits one Neva.

Ben and Neva slept in while I was taking in the early morning scenery.  

My fuzzy hair biking partners

A whole herd of deer came through our campsite.  I think they were looking for a place to get a sip of water.  There were over twenty of them, all in a row.

They way they walked in a line reminded me of Madeline.

ROCK CANYON CAMPGROUND

We started out fresh, and came to the section from pavement to off-road.  This section definitely seasoned us for the trails, starting with a very steep uphill.

Ben looking serious and ready to attack the 150.

 A day full of hills took it's toll.  Here's Ben soaking in a good leaning spot.

Ben headed back home after making a great lunch, while Neva and I pushed forwards.  

Ben bread with hummus, sardines and cucumber on top.

We ended up at the Rock Canyon campground which is literally in a canyon.  I decided to save the walk uphill for when Neva and I were fresh the following morning.  We had one camp-mate, Dave, who is a retired school teacher and current explorer of beautiful, secluded places around the US.

Oops, Dave accidentally scooted out of the picture, but he made us a lovely oatmeal breakfast with a side of good conversation.

BEAVERHEAD CENTER

Getting to Beaverhead Work Center was rough with the persistent climbs and sweltering heat, but after many long hours, and many stops under the tall pine trees, it was well worth the wait for a welcoming smile from Levi, the firefighter on duty.  Levi found us a hot shower, got us some fresh fruit, and even helped us set up our tent.

You guessed it, we were on the other side of that steep descent sign.  Phew, that was a big hill!

As we were packing up in the morning, we even had a stream of firefighters bring us various lunch items and juices for our journey.  Neva even got a Smokey the Bear pin which now sits proudly on the trailer.

Neva watering at Beaverhead.

ELK SPRINGS - DOUG'S LOG CABIN

Another rough day as the trees disappeared into desolate plains with no signs of shade as far as the eye can see.  The elevation turned to gentle rollers, but intermittent sections of heavy gravel brought the pace to a slow walking pace.  After about 20 miles of the plains, some pine trees start to appear again when entering Elk Springs, and the terrain is much more fun and tolerable, though the gravel still takes a lot of strength to get through if you're biking it.

A typical view of the Malapais Plains

We noticed a cabin to the left in hopes of getting water or a camp site, or both.  We were in for a treat, starting with a grinning Doug and cold waters.  Doug was on vacation from Tucson at his weekend cabin with family and friends.  They all welcomed us and let us stay on the most comfortable fold out couch bed I've ever slept on, while trying to pack us with as many calories as possible.

Everything in Doug's cabin was wood, even the bears! Doug and his brother in law built the entire house by themselves.

An unexpected surprise came in the form of Chris from the USFS.  He had received a call from a local who had seen Neva and I, and had come to check on us.  It turned out we were both recent Flagstaffians and we all chatted for a while about common acquaintances.  Chris also kindly let me look at his forest service map of the area to see what my options for the next day would be.

PIE TOWN - THE TOASTER HOUSE

I was tired of biking through thick gravel and decided to have a change of pace, literally, and hit the pavement.  Since Doug was headed home, he dropped me off at the intersection of Highway 12 and Highway 32 where I could bike north to Quemado and then east to Pie Town.

A cool rock formation on the way to Quemado.

We stopped in Quemado for lunch at the Largo Cafe. We had the soup and salad bar and filled up on fresh fruits and vegetables.  Coming off eating raw before our bike trip, this place was really an oasis with deliciously fresh food, good service and a clean atmosphere.

It was a great day.  I covered about 60 miles within five hours time, and was greeted by Kathy, the owner of the Pie-o-neer in Pie Town, NM.  Neva and I enjoyed a root beer float and pecan-sweet potato pie while exchanging stories with Kathy about travels to central America.

Hmmm, Neva doesn't look too happy for getting pecan and sweet potato pie with a  root beer float...

There's the smile!!!

We ended up staying the night at the bike-famed Toaster House which offers hospitality to anyone coming through on the continental divide or GDT.  I met a fellow cyclist named Chyel (pronounced 'shell') who was headed south just so he could turn around June 14 to do the northbound GDT race.  Him and a bunch of other racers will pass me in the days to come.

We stopped by the Pie-O-Neer to say hello, to check Wifi and to see Chyel off.  They are closed Mon - Wed though, so call ahead for pie!

Buuut, Kathy was sweet enough to save us a slice.  Peach!

Pie Town was a great place to recharge.  I'll tell you all about my little slice of Pie Town next time!

The rig in front of the toaster house.  Can you tell why it's called that?

Trials on the Trails

Neva and I have ridden from Silver City, New Mexico to Pie Town, New Mexico so far, via the GDT (Great Divide Trail) route.  My expectations were open because I knew that no matter what, off-road terrain carrying a child and 125 pounds of weight would be hard.  Here are some things we've encountered so far...

New Mexico mosaic in Penny Park, Silver City, NM

WATER!!! Or lack there of...

Water is the big issue here because New Mexico has been going through a drought and anywhere the maps might say that there is water; creeks, cow tanks, etc., there's not.  People are hauling in water to their cattle, the creeks are mud pits at best, and the threat of fires are high.

The stretch from Silver to Pie Town is rough because there aren't any small towns in between.  The only reliable water sources are at the USFS Work Center in Beaverhead, and the lone house you might see once every 30 miles, maybe.

Neva helping the firefighters water the plants at Beaverhead

Through the dry terrain, we carried 11 liters of water, which we could use for 3 days, if necessary.  Luckily, USFS patrol the dry areas pretty well and are very hospitable.  I would see a truck about once a day, and ask for a fill whether I needed it or not.  This was also a great way for letting people know that we were out there.  When Neva and I pulled up to Beaverhead Work Center at 8pm on Friday night (June 7) the firefighter on duty, Levi said he was about to go look for us and check to see if we were okay.  The forest service works hard, and they're always ready to help.  They really make me feel more at home in the wilderness as a sort of extended community family, watching out for the land and everything on it, kind of way.

A bovine farewell leaving Beaverhead Center towards the Malapais plains. 

SLOW...Gravel, and washboard, and winds, oh my!

Yes, off-road can be extremely slow going.  Think 3 mph uphill, when you can ride, and walking speed, if it's more steep...pushing a total of around 150 pounds, depending on how much water you are carrying.

TIP:  If you are carrying a child, they might be able to pull their own weight sometimes!

Neva helping me push the trailer up the hill

Leaving Silver City, it's pavement, but there are no shortage of hills.  Once you hit Pinos Altos is when you'll head off road, and you start with a very steep hill.  For the next 50 miles or so, you're looking at gravel washboard, but it is bikable.  There are about five areas where you will climb 500 feet in elevation in about 2 miles.  These portions we had to walk.  The combination of washboard and gravel makes steep downhills sketchy.  Wind and washboard can knock the trailer into a waggle, and the gravel can cause you to fishtail if you try to brake.  Disc brakes are advisable.
 

I took a little spill on the downhill washboard/gravel.  Off I went, but the trailer stayed upright.

There are a lot of ranchers through the Malapais Plains area, and they lay down thick gravel because it makes the roads easier for driving on; however, it also makes pulling a trailer like pulling an anchor, and is so thick in some places, it will stop you in your tracks. Luckily the plains area is fairly flat, so walking isn't too much of a chore, and the little one enjoys taking short jaunts out of the trailer.

Neva says, "Mommy, I want to get out and run.  I can go SOOOO fast!!!"

Going northbound, we've really had our share of headwinds, 35 mph!  The best thing to do is leave as early as possible because the winds do pick up the later the day gets.  Just keep in mind that the temperatures change 50 degrees or more from night and day, and scorching heat can turn to chilly after 8pm.  It can be 92 during the day and 35 at night.

You can get an idea of how hard the winds are blowing from the trailer flag and Neva's hair

IT'S SUNNY, hot, hot hot!

Leaving Silver City, it's hilly but with shade trees.  Once you see the elevation steady out, you've hit the plains, and there is not a shade tree for miles.  The stretch between Beaverhead Work Center and Elk Springs has one tree about half way that's off the side of the road near some mail boxes and at the intersection to go toward Magdelena.  That's it, so water is even more crucial with the sun exposure, but you can fill up at Beaverhead which should get you through.

My Neapolitan-style tan from biking west Texas and New Mexico

In Silver City, we picked up Super Salve sunscreen made locally by Denise.  I use that during the day, and at night, I use the Herbal Comfort Salve on my skin to help it heal faster.  You can check out her products at www.supersalve.com. The skin is the largest organ on your body, so it's important to keep it healthy, otherwise you will feel really drained really quickly.

The Super Salve sun cream stays within hands reach, right in front of me in the handlebar bag.

The GDT in the summer is hot, but it's not bikable once the monsoons hit around July, at least for this area anyway.  It's really all about the water throughout New Mexico.  Stay tuned to see specifics on where we have been!

Airport Cuisine

At the age of 3.5 years, Neva is about to get on her 43rd flight.  Traveling with a little one, and with a family, one must plan accordingly, especially when the average total travel time seems to be around 12 hours, from home base to the final destination.  This time, we were lucky...only 11 hours total travel time. So, with all of this 'spare' time on my hands, I decided to check in and let you know about our experience so far.

Pretty mundane actually.  The standard checking luggage, standing in lines, and waiting around in uncomfortable chairs with outlets that are in use or out of reach.  I am, however, happy to report that for the first time, neither Christian nor I had to 'opt out' and get patted down by security and a BIG FIRST (so far) of not being forced to give an offering to the sacrificial TSA gods.  Amazing! 

I've got 11 hours to feed my family 3 meals, or more (I've got a hungry family).  Here are some staples that I like to bring on most any trip, whether hiking, biking, or just traveling light based on guidelines out of our control. 

Before we left the house, we loaded up on calories and nutrients with a nice smoothie and coconut water.

After an hour drive to the airport and another hour of waiting, the family started getting peckish and I reached into the bag of snacks.

Tortillas or pita pockets are versatile and flat, a just-add-water style sandwich filling is nice, and some fresh fruits and vegetables are a must in the grungy airport environment which only offers highly processed foods.  This time, we chose whole wheat pita pockets, wild caught canned tuna steak and apples.  With a little ingenuity, I was able to get half an apple cut up into small bits, for the crunch, a small pack of Boar's Head mayonnaise from a sandwich shop and 3 slices of lemon from the bar. Flake tuna and mix well and viola!  You've got a yummy tuna pita!  Carrying food in tupperware and plastic baggies is very useful for keeping leftovers.

TIP 1.  Pre-cutting things is good  because not a lot of food places will allow knives, let alone lend one to a traveler.

Tip 2. Vinegar can be used instead of lemon, if you can find it, but lemons are a guaranteed at the standard airport bar.

Lunch time on the plane.  The peanuts option is no more.

Vanna Nieve, showing the food off.

Anything milk-like seems to pass the test when going through security as "baby friendly" as long as it has a sealable lid.  They usually test it for fumes, but I haven't had a problem with it before.  Neva really enjoys kefir, and it seems to keep pretty well for the whole trip.  Mixing some granola tossed in raisins and dried cranberries with some kefir on top makes a great snack, and we just asked the flight attendant for one of the plastic cups used for beverages which are no longer complimentary.

TIP 3. You can bring on items for baby that are not re-sealable, however, they most likely will open them up to "test" them, and then you are stuck with an open container that you need to use right away. 

TIP 4.  Bringing your own utensils is helpful.  Some attendants are not as generous as others, and it's nice to have.

Dinner - the vacation stretch.  We had a 2 hour layover in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, and were ready for some real food.  Unfortunately, the Fort Lauderdale airport has minimal accommodations.  The only two "food" sources only served prepackaged foods at ridiculous prices, but we had to cave because we had finished off the kefir/granola combo wanted greens.

Neva wanted to be in this picture.

We came up with a smoked salmon sandwich ($8.50), a hummus with pretzels (ahem...$5.00!), and a very dry orange (we didn't know that when we bought it).  Usually, I bring powdered hummus by Casbah.  It's light, easy to carry, and pretty delicious if you don't have many other options than bread around.  Neva was very proud of herself when she discovered it was extra tasty to dip her bread-heavy sandwich into the hummus.

TIP 5.  Don't forget the hummus...

I didn't take a picture of the fresh cantaloupe we brought, but this is the tupperware container that it was in.  All four sides lock and they have a tight rubber lid for a full water-tight seal.  They come in handy for future leftovers, or a way to make

TIP 6.  If you've ever had liquid spill, go for the Lock & Lock, BPA free food containers.

And last, but not least, if you are feeding your family...

Neva with her giraffe pillow and backpack of a few toys and snacks, waiting to leave the plane.

Make sure they carry their weight!

Close encounters of the Animal Kind

Neva and I have travelled to many national parks around the world, as well as aquariums and zoos.  The experience of meeting an individual at their prime residence, whether in the wild or in captivity, is very powerful.  From the tall to the small, we respect our animal friends, wherever they are.  Okay, you should know by now that I am cheesy, and I stick by my rhyme.

In our travels, most of our wild animal encounters have been with monkeys living in the forests of Central America. A long gaze from the human-like eyes of a fellow primate, whether behind bars or simply in a tree 20 feet overhead, is hypnotic and leaves the mind quiet and awestruck.  Staring into the complexity of their being, you see the reflection of recognition and understanding. The same question seems to resonate from both conscious minds simultaneously..."I wonder what they are thinking?"

In February, 2011, while hiking around la Isla de Ometepe in Nicaragua, we spotted howler monkeys and three-toed sloths.  Howlers are pretty used to humans in this part of the world and are fairly docile.  The sloths are usually found nearby, and the two species co-habitate nicely with their relaxed attitudes.  Sloths don't seem to be startled by the daily 5 am wake-up call provided by their noisy neighbors.  I, on the other hand, after camping under a tree containing a whole band of howlers, thought a sacrificial ceremony of sorts was taking place at the crack of dawn.  The howler "bark" can be heard for miles around, and we were lucky enough to have a front row seat.

These guys definitely aren't shy, and the sloths are...

well, sloths.

Less than a month later, we were in Okinawa, Japan and visited the zoo which has an extensive primate exhibit.  Some monkeys were jovial.  One in particular would gesticulate flirtatiously with lady passers-by, and then get chased by his cage mate, and presumably partner in life, when she got fed up with his cross-species public display of affection.

There were also monkeys like the baboon.  I'm not sure what his story was, but he did not seem to enjoy his home as much as the other monkey that had a daily ritual of cat-calling for human female attention.  The intensity with which he paced was unmatchable.  Back and forth.  Back and forth.  His focus, undeterred.   Knuckle over knuckle in rapid succession, emulating that of a soldier marching in a choreographed 21-gun salute every time he turned on his heel.

And then, he stopped...and looked at me.

His hands look so human...

Truly one of the most beautiful, and powerful creatures I have ever laid eyes upon.

A couple more months pass.  It's now the summer of 2011, and Neva and I have moved to Texas.  Christian took us to the Dallas World Aquarium which housed the only three-toed sloth in North America (according to the personnel).

This sloth was very content with his teenage caretaker and moved around a lot more than the three-toed sloths we saw in the wild.  The markings on his back were also quite lovely.  Any markings on the Nicaraguan sloths were hidden in the layer of green algae covering it's wiry fur.  The caretaker makes sure no one touches the sloth because their fur is naturally hydrophilic, and the oils in our hands can cause the opposite effect.  This adaptation is thought to have co-evolved with a specific species of green algae, resulting in a symbiotic relationship.  One day, this juvenile will grow up bearing the beneficial green hue of his photosynthetic phriend from another phylum.

We didn't visit the home where the wild alpacas roam, because there aren't any wild alpacas.  We did however visit Peru which is known for their alpaca and llama livestock.  In the middle of Cusco, there is a museum which houses an open alpaca and llama enclosure.  Alpacas are bred for their wool, while llamas are bred as a beast of burden and can be twice the size of alpacas. Their friendly demeanour and desire to be part of a group makes this touristy museum a perfect residence for them.

My step-dad Jim giving this alpaca some much appreciated pets.

They are happy to follow you around...

Unless you chase them off.

The year following, in July 2012, the whole family took a bicycling tour journey on the famous RAGBRAI bike ride.  On the way, we made a stop in Kansas to visit our friend Sue who raises llamas.  She does a great job raising this happy bunch.  The little one in front is the youngest, born less than a year before this picture was taken.  He is quite big for his age and he struts with confidence.  He is quite the rambunctious yet loveable male.  The whole group welcomed us into their space.  All were content in the shade, with newly shaved wool coats.

 
Later that month, Neva and I were privy to meet a reptilian individual that shared our space.  We would see this turtle pop-up here and there for a couple of weeks.  One day, we saw it digging, and this is what we saw...

It's a girl!

Three months later, we found ourselves at Ostional on the Nicoya Peninsula, off the west coast of Costa Rica.  October is the start of egg laying season for some turtles in Central America.  We spotted a Ridley sea turtle and a Greenback sea turtle laying eggs the last evening we were in Costa Rica.  We did not see the elusive Leatherback turtle which is known for their size, and is highly endangered. The Ridley has a more raised, textured shell in the center of it's back, while the Greenback has a flattened, smooth shell that is tear-drop shaped.

Greenback turtle laying eggs.  It's estimated that only 1% of sea turtles will make it to full maturation.

Egg laying is done, and the Greenback makes her way back to the ocean.

Speaking of reptiles, we cannot leave out the most prolific pest predator :  the snake.  Costa Rica alone is home to 135 different known snake species, 17 of which are venomous.  Most of the venomous snakes are either pit vipers or from the coral snake family.  Most likely, you won't see them though because they usually keep to themselves, and lots of snakes are nocturnal.  Just watch your step.

To put this in perspective a little bit for those of you in the US, Costa Rica is roughly the size of New Hampshire and Vermont combined, which is to say, not very big.  Because of Central America's relation to the equator, supreme locale between 2 oceans, and diverse climate and terrain, it's known for a large diversity of flora and fauna in a comparatively small area.

While in Nicaragua, we had been hiking for about 5 minutes before I heard a rustle in the brush.  Two steps later, and this 6 foot long snake whizzed passed us, shaking a sort of faux rattle, and disappearing into the forest.

The first part of our trip in Costa Rica, 2012, we were on bikes.  We started in La Fortuna and biked around Lake Arenal to get to Monte Verde.  On the path, we had seen a baby snake.  By the way it moved, and it's diamond colouration, I suspect it might have been a fer de lance, a very poisonous snake.  The vibration of me hitting my disc brakes on my bike sent off an annoying vibration that startled the snake from casually slithering to an all out run before I could take a picture.  I've never seen a snake run before, but I will never forget what it looks like!

The next day, we were made it to Monte Verde (taking a taxi for the last leg) and visited the Serpentario in Santa Elena which houses the most common snakes in Central America.

This Milk Snake was very friendly.  He put on quite the show moving around, wrapping himself up, and showing off his colour.

Neva looking at a Tropical Rattlesnake.  He struck at the glass the first time we passed by.  The thickest part of his body was the size of my calf, though it's difficult to tell from this picture.

Two months after we returned from Costa Rica, we couldn't forget the friendly milk snake, and visited a reptile convention in search of a pet.  We decided to get 2 corn snakes which have been great for the whole family.

BONUS!!!!
For fun, I wanted to leave you with these thoughts...

Fresh Fish

Shark and friends in the Churaumi Aquarium in Okinawa.  This aquarium cycles water from the ocean for their animals.  Two days after we went,  the Tohoku tsunami hit, and great care was taken to protect the animals from the resulting nuclear waste which polluted the ocean waters. 

Caught Fish

Fishing for dinner.  Friends took us out to catch stripped bass on Lake Texoma.  These stripeys have a sustainable living environment and spawn naturally in the lake.  The are able to live in both salt water and fresh water, and make the yearly migration, similar to salmon.  Neva pulled in this one, with a little help from Brian.

Work Fish

After a long soaking in the natural hot springs at Chula-u Bathhouse in Okinawa, we had to indulge in the Dr. Fish treatment.  These little guys are reddish long sucker fish, scientific name Garra rufa.  They are in the pirhana family, but don't actually have any teeth.  Though they are known for eating skin, this is a misnomer.  They are actually foraging for food, and removing your dry skin cells in the process, leaving your skin silky smooth.

Not Fish

My first bike tour, in December 2008, I biked up the Pacific Coast Highway (aka. PCH or Route 1) from LA to Napa Valley.  We stopped in at the Monterrey Bay Aquarium.  These are pictures of the Black Sea Nettle.  They can sting, but it's mostly to protect it's symbiotic friend, the Silvery Butterfish.  They share the table at the plankton buffet, and when danger is close, the butterfish hides in the cap of this gentle jelly.